Once a secluded town in the Mae Hong Son province, Pai is a unique destination that is almost always in any avid traveler’s Northern Thailand itinerary. Set in a scenic valley and originally a Chinese trade point inaccessible to tourists, Pai is now a hippie and artsy town sought-after by backpackers, adventure seekers, and those looking for a serene escape from the busier parts of Thailand. The sleepy town lures you with its lush sceneries and lazy vibes, and cafés, organic restaurants, tattoo parlors, yoga retreats, bohemian crafts shops, and bamboo bars all vie for your attention.
Just like almost any destination that has experienced a lot of development, Pai can still be as laid-back or as rowdy as you want it to be. Some might say that it’s not the same Pai it used to be; to be fair, however, all you need to do to get transported to that quietness you seek is to venture a little further away from the center of activity. So whether you’re looking for your own private space to meditate (perhaps with a hammock surrounded by foliage), or you’re eager to meet some friends over some drinks right inside the jungle, Pai has something to surprise you with.
Read on to find out more about this gem in the North of Thailand.
How to Get There
Chiang Mai is the most common gateway to Pai, so if you are coming from other parts of Thailand like Bangkok, you can either take a plane, train, or bus to Chiang Mai. Once in Chiang Mai, head over to the Arcade Bus Station where there are buses and mini-vans heading to Pai on a daily basis. You can buy tickets from any of the agencies there (we chose a mini-van from AVIA/Prem Pracha transit), for THB 150 each (~$5). Travel time is 3-4 hours, and there are buses/vans from 7:30am – 5:30pm (leaves every hour). Book your tickets here.
Word of caution: the winding road to Pai can make you feel dizzy and sick, so you might want to buy some motion sickness pills from the 7 Eleven near the bus station. In case you’re wondering, I bought some but I never used them.
Alternatively, if you’re confident with your motorbike skills, you can rent a bike from Chiang Mai and follow the Mae Hong Son loop. This will give you the freedom to stop anytime, admire the scenery along the way, and visit small villages.
Where to Stay in Pai
Pai Circus Hostel
Situated off the Pai center and up in the hills, Pai Circus Hostel is a cozy accommodation choice ideal for backpackers. Offering private huts and dormitories, it boasts of an infinity pool offering a stunning sunset view; a large grass area where you can lounge about, sunbathe, read a book, or drink; a bar; and a number of huts with hammocks, perfect for being lazy all day. It’s a great place to meet fellow travelers, especially since the hostel hosts different activities every day: pool parties, open mic, fire show, free pad thai dinner, quiz night, circus lessons, and many more.
Looking for a place right at the center of Pai? Consider booking a room at Common Grounds (hostel) or Pai Cherkaew (private). While in Pai, you might also want to experience staying in a treehouse facing the river, such as in Pai Treehouse Resort. If you are looking for something a little more private and luxurious, check out Reverie Siam Resort or Puri Pai Villas.
How Much Money to Bring
Pai is relatively cheap—even cheaper than Chiang Mai. Typical meals in the streets cost around 50 THB (~$1.5), while restaurants will set you back around 150 to 200 THB (~$4 to $7). Since you will be walking most of the time (unless you’re renting a motorbike), you will be paying only for transportation to places that are far from the town center, like Pai Canyon. I recommend allotting 450 THB (~$14) a day for meals and 200 THB (~$6.5) a day for tours/transportation—that’s less than 1,000 THB (~$30) per day. Drinks are cheap but if you love partying then you should take this into consideration, of course. Hostels range from 250 THB to 600 THB (~$8 to $9), while hotels and villas cost from 2,000 THB to 6,000 THB (~ $63 to $200).
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Check affordable Pai hotels here.
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Things to Do in Pai
To be honest, there’s not much to see in Pai. Aside from the Pai Canyon, its natural attractions fall short in the awesomeness category, although the vibe all over town is completely, inexplicably relaxing. So if you’re coming here for sightseeing, I am telling you right now that you might end up being disappointed. However, if you simply want to get away from the hustle and bustle of everything; get immersed in a lazy, artsy, hippie culture; and master the art of doing nothing, then spend at least 3 days in Pai to get a real feel of it—and to fall in love with it.
My advice? Drop all attempts at covering “tourist spots” and just slow down your pace. That’s the best way to enjoy and get to know Pai.
1 | See the sunset from the Pai Canyon.
You can’t leave Pai without checking out the Pai Canyon (Kong Lan), a scenic, tree-lined gorge with narrow, treacherous hiking trails offering breathtaking views. Not only is it a favorite of adventure seekers and nature lovers, it’s also a sought-after spot for watching breathtaking sunsets! Those who are adventurous—and fit—enough could trek down the dirt paths (at your own risk), but for those who only want to witness the spectacular sundown, there’s a relatively short and easy trail. You can go to Pai Canyon on your own via scooter by heading south on highway 1095 en route to the Memorial Bridge, or you can purchase a tour from one of the agencies downtown—I think we paid THB 100 (~$3) per head.
2 | Sample delicious coffee and tea.
Pai’s lazy, cozy vibe is so infectious that you would most likely just want to do nothing all day. As for myself, this translates into a slow day of lounging in cafés and sipping coffee. There are lots of quirky, hippie cafés in and out of the town center, but one fabulous find we had was Malamong Art Café, which serves a variety of coffee and tea. The place is so cozy that we just kept ordering one coffee after another. The owner also sells handicrafts, clothing, and souvenirs.
3 | Eat healthy food.
Hidden a little off the main walking street is Om Garden Café, a beautiful restaurant serving delicious, healthy food. Whether you’re a vegan, a vegetarian, or a carnivore, there’s something for you in its extensive menu. I was obsessed with the yummy Pumpkin Pesto Pasta Salad with Feta Cheese and the Tandoori Chicken—both in huge servings and priced reasonably. The fruit shakes were extremely fresh and invigorating; my favorites are the Watermelon Beetroot and the Lime and Mint. Everything is freshly prepared upon order, so pack a bit of patience.
4 | Party all night.
The fun thing about Pai’s nightlife is that the town is so small that almost everyone goes to the same places. There’s a daily pattern: parties start after dinner downtown, in the bars along the main walking street (like Boom Bar), and as each one of them closes, everyone moves on to the next spot. Whether you love dancing to the DJ’s tunes, sitting relaxed with some beers, or participating in open mics, you can surely find one that matches your mood. Almost everyone ends up in Don’t Cry, the last one to close, where there are food stalls as well. Try the pad thai right across the street too!
5 | Learn a circus trick or two at Pai Circus Hostel.
Ever tried baton twirling, poi dancing, or hula-hooping? At Pai Circus Hostel, make a new friend and learn a new skill as well. Here, you will see total beginners learning eagerly and experts showing off their tricks. Best of all, it’s all for free—the toys are just scattered around the hostel’s main lounging area.
6 | Go shopping at the night market.
At night, the Pai walking street comes alive with street vendors selling everything from food to arts and crafts. Take a stroll just before dinner time and check out what’s on offer. Whether you’re looking for gigantic dreamcatchers to hang in your home, hippie dresses, handmade accessories, paintings, or souvenirs to take home, the creative people of Pai have something for you.
Other Things to Do:
- Soak in a hot spring.
- Go river tubing or whitewater rafting.
- Visit the Tham Lod Cave.
- Cool off at the Mor Paeng Waterfall.
- See a Buddhist temple.
Now What?
• Book your tickets from Chiang Mai to Pai here.
• Check affordable Pai hotels here.
• Read my Chiang Mai list of things to do.
• Do a side trip to White Temple in Chiang Rai and read my guide here.
• Plan your whole Thailand itinerary by reading my Indochina travel guide.
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Further reading:
 THINGS TO DO IN CHIANG MAI Here's a list to help you maximize your trip to the "Rose of the North". |  ITINERARY & BUDGET Our 10-Day itinerary across Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam. |
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What do you think about Pai? Have you been there? How was your experience?
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