Welcome to another instalment of EAT-ineraries! This time, let’s visit Silom District, one of the most vibrant foodie areas of Bangkok.
If you have read my previous blog post about Bang Rak, you would have gathered that Silom and Bang Rak are close to each other and I suggested that you choose Silom as your home base for your gastronomic explorations. Now, Silom is actually in Bang Rak! The Bang Rak I was talking about in my other blog is the Bang Rak subdistrict. Confusing right? For my Filipino readers, let’s just compare than to when people refer to NCR as “Manila”. Manila and Quezon City are both in “Manila”–Bang Rak and Silom are both in “Bang Rak”. Got it?
But compared to the Bang Rak I featured previously, Silom is a combination of business hubs, hotels, lively side streets, endless stalls of street food—and a younger crowd that whiz by from building to building, street cart to street cart. There’s no shortage here when it comes to food and I could easily spend a week here and not even scratch the surface of the bustling dining scene. So whether you’re looking to sit down at a posh restaurant, experience how the locals eat, or grab a drink from an acclaimed cocktail bar, Silom is the perfect place for you.
Read below my suggested 2-day EAT-inerary in Silom.
Day 1:
8:00AM: Stuff your face with noodles for breakfast at Kuay Teow Khae
There’s nothing like grabbing a stool in a sidewalk eatery in Bangkok—the quality of street food in Thailand is really just different. At Kuay Teow Khae, expect to be satiated with huge bowls of Tom Yum Kuay Teow, not to be confused with Tom Yum Kung, which is the prawn soup we all know. Get the big bowl (60 baht) so you can get all the toppings: crispy pork, red barbecue pork, ground pork, egg, greens, pork meatball, fried garlic, and cilantro. I recommend you try it dry (haeng)—they serve the soup separately and this way, you get to taste all those toppings undiluted, including the lovely spicy sauce. You can choose which noodles you want too!
Why do I suggest that you do this in the morning? Because the lunch crowd is insane!
Kuay Teow Khae is open from 7AM to 2PM (closed on Sunday and Monday).
11:00AM: Get a taste of Chiang Mai for lunch
Ready for more noodles? Of course! If you want a taste of Khao Soi close to what they serve over at Chiang Mai, head over to Sibsong Banna Noodle House for a comforting bowl of this delicious Northern curry soup. While they don’t serve chicken leg over here (they gave me cut-up thigh parts instead), the curry itself is delicious—very creamy and just the right amount of heat. Both fried and blanched noodles are in there, just like a khao soi should. I liked their pickled mustard greens, but I do wish they have cilantro. They also have a beef option and one with offal. Like the previous eatery, expect a long line for lunch so I recommend you go by eleven.
Sibsong Banna Noodle House is open from 7AM to 2:30PM (closed on Saturday and Sunday).
2:00PM: Chill at the Reiloft Café with an iced coffee
Walking around hot and humid Bangkok can drain your energy, so why not replenish that with a nice drink at Reiloft Café? This shop is on the rooftop of a co-working space, so it’s perfect if you’re looking to catch up on some work as well. Try the Black Orange (90 baht) which has orange juice, soda, and espresso. They also serve wine! The view is nice and the ambience is very relaxing—hanging out here should get you ready for more walking, and more food.
Reiloft Café and Bar is open from 9AM to 5PM (closed on Saturday and Sunday).
7:00PM: Luxuriate in a giant crispy pork pad kra pao
I’m guilty for consuming lots of quantities of pad kra pao moo krob (crispy pork and basil stir-fry) back home, and at the POPUP bar and restaurant at the Ibis Styles Silom, they serve the pork five times the size. While I do have qualms about this version (it was not spicy enough, it was not garlicky enough), the pork is heavenly—the skin is incredibly crispy and the meat was so moist. The sauce adds an extra luscious layer and the fried basil gives an exciting pop to each bite. They do serve it with prik nam pla though, so that takes care of the spice problem, I guess!
POPUP is open from 7AM to 11PM.
10:00PM: Tipple up at one of Asia’s 50 best bars
Prepare to be amused by well-made cocktails at the award-winning Vesper Cocktail Bar right at the heart of Silom. Whether you’re looking for classic cocktails or eager for some playful ones, this laidback bar is the perfect place for your nightcap. I love the level of creativity in their signature offerings, and so I highly recommend that you try them (the menu changes from time to time, by the way). The Beginning End Beginning has yuzu sake, gin, and the most delicious chamomile and saffron sorbet (mindblowing!), while the Thai Tai boasts of Thai spices and fruits. Get the strong Hemingway Sazerac for the perfect finish.
Vesper is open from 5:30PM to 1AM.
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Other posts in this series:
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Day 2:
8AM: Visit the street food strip, Soi Silom 20
What better way to start the day that just sample various food from different stalls and shops in a long street filled with them? Soi 20 Market is known as food heaven in Silom, and you can get everything from pad kra pao, som tam, and khao ka moo (stewed five-spice pork shoulder) to khao mok kai, barbecued meats, seafood, and desserts. It’s quite touristy and busy, but the food is fresh and cheap and you can get a variety of dishes all in one go—truly an authentic Bangkok experience.
12:00PM: Indulge in traditional Thai food in an upscale setting
I’ve been to Supanniga Eating Room in 2019, and I’m happy to find out that they have a branch in Sathon 10 in Silom. The menu is extensive—and I mean storybook levels—but everything we tried was fabulous. Start with the Crispy Leaf Fish Salad which has an insane fish sauce-lime dressing and order some Pa Nang Neu Lai (beef shang Panang curry) to share. This one’s so fragrant with chopped kaffir lime leaves and so creamy with the fresh coconut milk (not too spicy, in case you’re wondering). The Isaan Pork Steak is wonderful, juicy, and the sauce was amazing. Finish off with some Mango Sticky Rice and a Moji-Thai!
Supanniga Eating Room is open from 11:30AM to 2:30PM and 5:30PM to 12AM.
3:30PM: Sit down for some croissants and coffee
Not too far away from Supanniga Eating Room is KERK Coffee, which has the most Instagrammable drinks to match their equally beautiful space. Their signature drink, the Black and White Latte, has espresso, milk, and charcoal (they also have a Black and Pink version, with strawberry milk). While you’re at it, grab some croissants or a slice of their homemade cakes!
KERK is open from 10AM to 6PM.
7:00PM: Fall in laab at Yasothon Duck Larb
Laab (or larb, or laap) is not very popular outside of Thailand, and I’ve been campaigning about this dish—a spicy salad with herbs and lime-fish sauce dressing—for ages because IT’S JUST SO FUCKING GOOD. At Yasothon Duck Larb, expect spicy, sour, delicious laab served with basil and crunchy vegetables. The sidewalk shop specializes in Isaan food (Northeast Thai) so you can find things like Nam Tok (spicy beef “waterfall” salad) and Gai Yang (grilled chicken) as well. I didn’t want rice but the laab was so spicy, I just had to order one—even the rice was great. The menu is extensive so you might want to try a variety (spicy salads, grilled meats, seafood). Dining here was probably one of my favorite moments in Bangkok.
Yasothon Duck Larb is open from 4PM to 10PM (closed on Sunday and Monday).
10:00PM: Get all snazzy and tipsy at Mezcal Bar
Chef Radek Zarebinski, who has worked in Michelin-star kitchens such as Gaggan, has started his own ventures in Bangkok, namely Larder (charcuterie and bakery), Cholo’s (taco shop), Rad Meats (deli), and now the newest one, Mezcal, a bar specializing in—as you guessed it—mezcal, the Mexican agave spirit. Located in a quiet side street in Silom, this chic loungey bar offers Mexican food (pork pibil, birria) and cocktails. The place is just gorgeous and—I hate saying this—Instagrammable. I loved their mezcal version of the Old Fashioned, the Mojito de Jalisco (tequila, yuzu, lime), and the Peachy Corpse No. 2 which has French aperitif, mezcal, peach liqueur, and a splash of Absinthe.
Mezcal is open from 6PM to 1AM (closed on Monday and Tuesday).
Silom EAT-inerary Food Map
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